I-Yulin Dongke Impahla Yezingubo

Ukuthambekela kwezingubo zokugqoka kanye nombono wokusetshenziswa kwabantu emphakathini wanamuhla

Le mpikiswano ingenye yezimpikiswano ezenziwe encwadini entsha yombhali u-W. David Marks, Isimo Namasiko.Ababukeli bemfashini bangase balazi igama lika-Marx emsebenzini wakhe wangaphambilini, i-Ametora, elandisa ukuthi i-Japan yathatha kanjani isitayela saseMelika futhi yasithengisa.Umsebenzi wakhe omusha wembula lokho akubiza ngokuthi “imfihlakalo enkulu yesiko” - ngokuyisisekelo ukuthi kungani abantu bekhetha imikhuba ethile nezinto ezingezinhle ngaphandle kwesizathu.
Yebo, ukucatshangelwa okungokoqobo noma ukwahlulela kwekhwalithi kuvame ukuba yizaba esizisebenzisayo ukuze sisekele ukubalekela kwethu kumathrendi amasha noma izimpawu zesimo.Abathengi bangase bazitshele ukuthi izinto zokwakha kanye nobuciko besikhwama se-Birkin abunalutho, nakuba kungasebenzi kahle ekuphatheni izinto kunezikhwama ezingathengwa ngenani elincane lezindleko.Izikhalazo zobuhle noma ubuqiniso nazo zingasetshenziswa njengezaba zokusuka kuma-lapel abanzi ukuya kuma-skinny jeans noma ama-baggy jeans, esingenayo injongo yokusebenza yangempela.
Ukuziphatha okunjalo akukhona kuphela emphakathini wabathengi wanamuhla.“Eminyakeni edlule, izizwe ezingazodwa ziye zashintsha izinwele zazo ngaphandle kokubhalisela i-GQ,” kubhala uMarx esahlukweni esiphathelene nomjikelezo wemfashini.Singasho ukuthi izitayela zidala imboni yezemfashini, hhayi ngokuphambene nalokho.
Umnyombo wale misebenzi yamasiko, ngokusho kukaMarx, isifiso sethu sesikhundla namandla ethu okuziqhayisa ngaso.Uphawu lwesimo olusebenzayo ludinga inani elithile lezindleko ukuze lulenze luhluke, kungaba intengo yalo yangempela (i-Birkins futhi) noma nje isilinganiso solwazi olumayelana nalo olungaqashelwa kuphela yilabo abanalolo lwazi, njengelebula yesi-Japanese engacacile.
Nokho, i-inthanethi iyashintsha indlela amabhrendi, imikhiqizo, nayo yonke enye into edala inani lesimo.Ngokufika kwemithombo yezindaba kanye nokukhiqizwa ngobuningi eminyakeni eyikhulu edlule, imali yamasiko efana nolwazi lwangaphakathi ingase ibaluleke kakhulu kunokuboniswa okuqondile kwengcebo, njengoba ingabonisa isimo futhi ikhuthaze ukulingisa.Kodwa namuhla usukwazi ukufinyelela ngokushesha cishe noma yiluphi ulwazi noma isihloko ongase usicabange, okube nomthelela ohlotsheni “lokuntengantenga kwamasiko”, uMarx wagomela ngokuthi akukho okubonakala kunokuphikelela, nokuthi, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi kungenzeka, isiko alibonakali nhlobo. izothuthuka.Lokhu kusiza ukuchaza ukuhlanya kwe-retro okwenza imfashini yanamuhla ibonakale njengemidlalo yakudala kunesikhathi esibonakalayo emlandweni wemfashini.
“Iningi lale ncwadi livela ekucabangeni ukuthi yini engalungile ngesiko njengamanje futhi ngibone ukuthi ukuphela kwendlela engingayichaza ngayo, okokuqala, ukuthi nginohlobo oluthile lwethiyori mayelana nendlela isiko elisebenza ngayo, noma okungenani imibono ecatshangelwayo.nokuthi yiziphi izindinganiso zamasiko, ”kusho uMarx engxoxweni.
I-BoF ixoxa no-Marks ukuthi i-inthanethi ikushintsha kanjani ukusayina kombuso, umthelela wayo esikweni, ama-NFT, kanye nenani lobuciko enkathini yedijithali.
Ekhulwini lama-20, ulwazi kanye nokufinyelela emikhiqizweni ngokwakho kube yizindleko zokubonisa.I-inthanethi yaba ngeyokuqala ukudiliza imigoqo yolwazi.Konke kungatholakala kalula ku-inthanethi.Bese [kuthinte] ukusatshalaliswa kanye nokufinyelela kumkhiqizo.
Nangeminyaka yawo-1990, ngaxoxwa ku-New York Times nge-athikili ekhuluma ngeNkawu Yokugeza ngoba abantu babezama ukuthenga Inkawu Yokugeza eNew York.Kuyinto engenakwenzeka, ngoba kufanele uye eJapane, okungekho muntu ngaleso sikhathi, noma kufanele uye esitolo eNew York, lapho ngezinye izikhathi babe nakho, noma kufanele uye eLondon, ukuze isitolo lapho ekhona..Yilokho kuphela.Ngakho-ke ukuvele uvakashele Inkawu Yokugeza kunezindleko zokusayina eziphakeme kakhulu, okuyenza ibe umaka omuhle kakhulu wokuhlukanisa, futhi abantu bacabanga ukuthi kuhle kakhulu ngoba kuncane kakhulu kwayo.
Akukho lutho namuhla ongeke ukwazi ukukuthenga futhi ukulethe kuwe noma nini, noma kuphi.Ungavuka phakathi kobusuku futhi uhlele.Kodwa okubaluleke nakakhulu, yonke into iwukukopela.Uma ufuna okuthile ngesitayela esithile okubona kumzila wezindiza, ungakuthola khona manje.Ngakho-ke, azikho izithiyo zolwazi futhi azikho izithiyo emikhiqizweni.
Ukwenza kucace encwadini ukuthi awuyithathi le nqubo njengengathathi hlangothi.Empeleni kubi.Lokhu kwenza isiko libe yisicefe, njengoba isignali eyinhloko inani langempela ledola, hhayi noma iyiphi imali yamasiko.
thanda lokhu.Angazi noma uyibonile yini le video, kodwa kunamavideo abantu abahamba LA bebuza abantu ngezimpahla zabo.Uma behlola ingubo ngayinye, abakhulumi ngophawu, bakhuluma kuphela ngenani.Ngakubona ngase ngithi, “Hawu, ngomunye umhlaba,” ikakhulukazi njengoba esizukulwaneni sami unamahloni kakhulu ukukhuluma ngezindleko noma uzame ukuwehlisa.
Inhlokodolobha yezamasiko isiphenduke igama elingcolile.Ngemva kokuba [isazi sezokuhlalisana kwabantu] uPierre Bourdieu ebhale kancane ukuthi ukwazisa ubuciko obuyinkimbinkimbi nobungabonakali kuwuphawu lwesigaba nokuthi wonke umuntu useqala ukukuqonda, kwaba nokuhlehla okucacile: “Kufanele sihlole ngobumnene.Art, kusukela phezulu kuya phansi.ukuze ukwazisa kwezobuciko kungabi yindlela yokumane kukhiqize kabusha izakhiwo zezigaba.”Isiko eliphansi liwusizo njengamasiko aphezulu.Kodwa lokho azama ukukwenza ukuqeda inhloko-dolobha yamasiko njengendlela yokuvala.Iphusha [izimpawu zesimo] emuva emalini yezomnotho, engingacabangi ukuthi iyinhloso yanoma ubani.Kungumphumela wesistimu walolu shintsho.
Ingxabano yami ayikona ukuthi “sidinga ukubuyisa inhloko-dolobha yamasiko abantu abaphakeme njengendlela yokucwasa abangafundile.”Kudingeka nje kube nohlobo oluthile lwendlela yokuhlomula yalokhu engikubiza ngokuthi inkimbinkimbi engokomfanekiso, okusho ukuhlola kwamasiko okujule ngempela, okuthakazelisayo, okuyinkimbinkimbi ngaphandle kokuthi kubonakale njengokuzenzisa, ukudelela, nokucwasa.Kunalokho, qonda ukuthi yilokhu okusha okuqhubekisela phambili yonke i-ecosystem yamasiko.
Kwezemfashini, ikakhulukazi, ingabe ubuciko bulahlekelwa inani eminyakeni ye-inthanethi ngoba ungathi buyinkimbinkimbi engokomfanekiso?
Ngicabanga ukuthi kungenye indlela.Ngicabanga ukuthi umsebenzi wezandla usubuyile.Njengoba konke kutholakala, ukuphumelela kuyindlela yokubuyela entuleni nasekuyivelakancane.Ngaso leso sikhathi, njengoba yonke into yenziwa kancane ngemishini, ukuxoxa indaba yomkhiqizo kuba nzima kakhulu.Amabhrendi kufanele abuyele kubuciko ukuze bakhe indaba ethethelela intengo yeprimiyamu.
Ngokusobala, kunezinhlobo ezahlukene zezimpawu zesimo ezenzeka kunethiwekhi.Ama-NFT athole indlela yokudala ukushoda kwezimpahla zedijithali ngokuvumela abantu ukuthi bafakazele ubunikazi bento efana ne-jpeg.Ubona amanye amaqoqo e-NFT, njenge-Bored Ape Yacht Club, aqale abe yizimpawu zesimo emphakathini we-crypto bese ethandwa kakhulu.Ingabe lokhu kusho ukuthi ukusayinda kusaqhubeka ngendlela efanayo, kodwa sisezinhlelweni zokuthola izindlela ezintsha zokubonisa nokubonisa njengoba kwakhiwa isiko elengeziwe ku-inthanethi?
Ngikholwa ukuthi ziyizimpawu zesimo.Ngicabanga nje ukuthi ziyizimpawu zesimo ezibuthakathaka ngoba izimpawu zesimo zidinga izinto ezintathu.Badinga izindleko zokubonisa: kufanele kube khona okuthile okwenza kube nzima ukuzithola.Banayo.Ziyabiza noma zingase zibe yivelakancane.Kusenzima kakhulu ukuyithola.Kodwa abanazo ezinye izinto ezimbili uphawu lwesimo esihle olunazo, okuyi-alibi - asikho isizathu sokuthenga enye ngaphandle kokuqagela kwezezimali noma ufuna ukuthenga uphawu.Khona-ke futhi akanakho ukuxhumana namaqembu asezingeni eliphezulu asevele ekhona.Izinkawu eziyisicefe zisondele ngesikhathi uMadonna, Stephen Curry nabanye balaba saziwayo beqala ukuzithenga futhi bazifake ezithombeni zabo zephrofayela.
Kodwa into eyinhloko ezimpawu zesimo ukuthi kufanele kube nezinsalela zokuziphatha.Kufanele babe nomsebenzi othile ongaba ingxenye yemvelo yendlela yokuphila yabantu engeke ibenze bangabi nje isifiso, kodwa babe ingxenye yangempela yendlela yokuphila yabantu bese kuba nesifiso sabanye.
Kubonakala sengathi sihlala sinesizukulwane esisha esifuna ukuhluka futhi silwe nesizukulwane esidala.Abazali yini eyabo imali yamasiko kanye nezimpawu zesimo?Ingabe ishintsha okuthile?
Uma uhlala ku-inthanethi futhi uhlala ku-TikTok, udinga ukwazi i-syntax yesikhulumi nsuku zonke, ngoba kufanele wazi ukuthi yimaphi ama-memes athrendayo, yimaphi amahlaya akhona futhi angekho.Konke kusekelwe kulwazi, futhi ngizwa sengathi yilapho amandla amaningi aya khona.Angiboni ukuthi amandla aya ekudaleni izinhlobo ezintsha zomculo ezisixosha, kwakhiwe izinhlobo ezintsha zokugqoka ezisixosha.Awuboni nje kubantu abasha.
Kepha nge-TikTok, ngicabanga ukuthi badala okuqukethwe kwevidiyo okunenga kakhulu kubantu abadala ngoba iningi labantu abadala lithatha i-TikTok bese lithi, “Ngiphumile.”yakhelwe abantu abadala ngoba inezinga lokunambitha elibi kakhulu, eliphansi kunawo wonke kuvidiyo eyisekhondi elingu-15.Akudingekile ukuba ube umsebenzi wobuciko.Ngakho-ke, kunomehluko phakathi kwentsha.Akuyona nje indawo esiyijwayele, okungukuthi ubunkimbinkimbi obungokomfanekiso noma ubunkimbinkimbi bobuciko.
Ngicabanga ukuthi enye yezinto abaningi bethu abayizwile eminyakeni edlule ukuthi izitayela zemfashini azisasebenzi njengakuqala.Njengoba yonke into ibonakala ngokushesha futhi ifinyeleleka ku-runway noma ku-TikTok, ziyavela futhi zihlakazeke ngokushesha kangangokuthi kuba nezitayela ezimbalwa, uma zikhona, ezihlukile ngonyaka othile.Uma yonke into ibikhona ku-inthanethi imizuzu engu-15 kuphela, bekungaba khona okuthile okungathuthukisa ukubaluleka komlando okhulume ngakho encwadini ukuze kuzuze izizukulwane ezizayo?
Okuthrendayo kwemfashini akukhona nje mayelana nokutholwa noma ukuthenga, kodwa mayelana nabantu abazifaka ebunikazini babo ngezindlela abazibona ziyiqiniso.Ngesikhathi esifushane kangaka phakathi kokuvela kombono nalapho usabalala noma okungenzeka usakazeke emphakathini, abantu abanaso isikhathi sokuwamukela futhi bawenze ingxenye yobunikazi babo ngempela.Ngaphandle kwayo, ayibonakali njengenjwayelo yomphakathi, ngakho-ke uthola lo mnyakazo we-microscopic.Ungaze ubabize ngama-nanotrends.Ngamasiko, isimo sishubile nakakhulu.
Kodwa usaphambuka ezintweni ezithile ngokuhamba kwesikhathi.Asisekho kumodi ye-skinny jeans.Ngisho noma yonke into ihamba kahle, uma ubheka i-skinny jeans, usacabanga ukuthi isencane.Ama-chinos e-J.Crew e-baggy ayathakazelisa kimi ngoba uma ubulokhu ubheka u-Popeye iminyaka emine edlule, ungabona ukuthi ane-silhouette enkulu ngempela.Konke kuvela kulo mculi, u-Akio Hasegawa.Ngokusobala usabela ekutheni izinto zehle kakhulu kuThom Browne, kodwa ngamadoda kuphela aqala ukugqoka izingubo eziwafanela ngempela.Kodwa ngokushesha lapho lokhu kwenzeka, umnyango we-silhouette enkulu uyavuleka.
Ngakho-ke ukusho ukuthi akukho mkhuba, angicabangi ukuthi kuyiqiniso.Iqiniso lokuthi sisuka kokucashile siye kokukhulu kukho konke kuwumkhuba.Kumane kuwumkhuba wakudala, odonsa kancane kancane, hhayi umkhuba oqinile, ohlanganisa yonke into yekhulu lama-20 esike sayibona esikhathini esidlule.
© 2021 Imfashini Yebhizinisi.Wonke Amalungelo Agodliwe. Ukuze uthole ulwazi olwengeziwe funda Imigomo Nemibandela yethu Ukuze uthole ulwazi olwengeziwe funda Imigomo Nemibandela yethuUkuze uthole ulwazi olwengeziwe, sicela ubheke Imigomo Nemibandela yethu.Ukuze uthole ulwazi olwengeziwe, sicela ubheke imigomo nemibandela yethu.


Isikhathi sokuthumela: Oct-19-2022